Blog

Submitted by jono on 23 Aug 2017.

I lose count of the days. I think it was three, waiting for conditions to improve at Thorsminde. On day three local retired fisherman Ole and his wife Esmerelda found and took me in. That was nice. Getting fed was nice, but the company was what I most welcomed. Thorsminde had been feeling a solitary place: bleak weather keeping locals behind doors, visitors keeping to self-contained groups, my choice of camping location - hidden from the wind but also from view.

Submitted by jono on 20 Aug 2017.

Frustrating. Onshore wind and waves have me pinned on the Danish coastline.

At times it looks OK to sail and perhaps is, but with no landing options between Thorsminde and Hvide Sande this next 43km might as well be an open sea crossing. I came within a whisker of leaving today - suited up, board next to the water - then had a final test of the rig against the wind and thought better of it.

Submitted by jono on 14 Aug 2017.

An early morning dash in a narrow weather window got me to the Danish island of Læsø. Overnight had been windy so the Swedish side of the Skagerrak / Kateggat Sea was confused and lumpy - but he angle was just right to sail high in reaching mode, thereby heading into the waves rather than accelerating down them. That keeps speeds down and means control is less of an issue. By the middle things had calmed down enough that I had the confidence for a spot of filming in the shipping lanes. The aircraft at the end of the clip circled a few times for a good look.

Submitted by jono on 10 Aug 2017.

Today was a perfect day. Beautiful weather, scenery, met many friendly and kind people, ended up at a delightful little place called Grundsund.
I'm a bit tired to write much, so will scribble a few postcards instead...

Submitted by jono on 08 Aug 2017.

Last night in Norway. As this chapter closes and another begins I can't help but feel somewhat melancholic. Norway and her people have been so kind to me. I've been accepted and welcomed at all ports. Generously supported by native Norwegians and other nationalities who have made this country their home too. Material support, and also the precious gift of time. Some history explained; a collection revealed; a walk or drive shared. I owe so many thank yous.

I hope I have learned from you.

Submitted by jono on 03 Aug 2017.
Submitted by jono on 29 Jul 2017.

Upwind sailing these last days on open coastline without protection from swell. Yesterday I sailed a few miles with contact Alex, before leaving him with a couple of Snickers bars and wishing him good luck getting home. I probably made it to land before him. At a headland which turned out to be surf spot 'XY'. There I met off-grid campers Gerard, Anna, Bic and Sara who were kind enough to include me in their barbecue and the drinking of their not inconsiderable alcohol supply.

Submitted by jono on 23 Jul 2017.
Submitted by jono on 17 Jul 2017.

The Hornelen mountain sea cliff is the highest in Europe. There were moderate strength downdrafts coming down off it, but nothing compared to the previous day's battering (on approach to Grindøy). Once past the wind shadows there was some great upwind sailing going west out of Frøysøen. Despite the rain I really enjoyed the sailing. A bit of a battle. You soon get used to being what initially feels like being overpowered, and it is only really the corners that are more difficult. The final shower is just before reaching Florø.

Submitted by jono on 13 Jul 2017.

Being 'on expedition' is a very full way of living. Every day is an unknown and unfolds in a unique way. Sometimes the day is filled with spectacular scenery, others it is shrouded behind mist or low cloud. Plans form as the breeze fills and are reshaped as it wanes. Sometimes the sailing requires full attention, other times it allows the mind to wander.

And the support! Everywhere I land, through social media, messages, from all directions, borders on overwhelming. People are good. That's a conviction I had anyway, but is only reinforced by each passing day.