Thorsminde to Esbjerg

Submitted by jono on 23 Aug 2017.

I lose count of the days. I think it was three, waiting for conditions to improve at Thorsminde. On day three local retired fisherman Ole and his wife Esmerelda found and took me in. That was nice. Getting fed was nice, but the company was what I most welcomed. Thorsminde had been feeling a solitary place: bleak weather keeping locals behind doors, visitors keeping to self-contained groups, my choice of camping location - hidden from the wind but also from view.

It was fascinating talking with Ole about Thorsminde's history. Being a fishing town - tragedy - of course - is a big part of that. On 14-02-1979 heavy icing caused the sinking of several vessels, with considerable loss of life. Ole and his crew had been fortunate to end up beached, and airlifted to safety.

After retirement Ole sold his boat, which was subsequently holed and sunk in a collision at sea.

Everyone has a story and some - like Ole - have many.

An early start yesterday. I was keen to get off this stretch of coastline and acheived that aim in two hops. 23nm to Hvilde Sande and 26nm to Blåvand. Tough sailing. Very broad, quite windy, and a swelly, bumpy sea. I fell maybe 6? 8? times as a result of the nose digging in.

Once across the sandbar spit at Blåvand the water was flat. Reward for efforts. I allowed myself a fist clenched "yeah!".

14nm more and I reached Esbjerg, and more extraordinary kindness from people I've never before met. This time from Klaus, Trine and family (including Emil, who registered his parents as contacts!). I've struggled out of bed this morning. My legs are cramped. I'll take a stroll into Esbjerg centre now, try to loosen myself up. Maybe make some miles this afternoon if a breeze fills in.

  • Before meeting Ole I'd photographed this memorial. Note the dates.
    Before meeting Ole I'd photographed this memorial. Note the dates.
  • Denmark's west coast is one long exposed beach
    Denmark's west coast is one long exposed beach
  • Inside the harbour walls at Hvilde Sande
    Inside the harbour walls at Hvilde Sande
  • The falls do at least give the opportunity for a break
    The falls do at least give the opportunity for a break
  • Blåvand lighthouse
    Blåvand lighthouse
  • Sandbanks flank the entrance to Esbjerg
    Sandbanks flank the entrance to Esbjerg
  • Blåvand lighthouse
    Blåvand lighthouse
Tagged with: Denmark